C2 field notes · North Mississippi

Know your lawn.
Then cut it right.

Five straightforward guides for the warm-season lawns common around Olive Branch. When the property needs more than a weekend fix, C2 is one call away.

1. Mowing height by grass type

The right cut begins with knowing what grass is under the mower.

2. Water early, not all night

Coordinate irrigation with natural dew and let leaves dry on schedule.

3. Follow the one-third rule

Frequent cuts protect the canopy better than dramatic catch-up mowing.

4. Don't fertilize too early

Let warm-season turf wake up before feeding it.

5. Sharp blades matter

A clean cut looks better and causes less injury to the grass blade.

Guide 01

How high should you cut Mississippi grass?

There is no single correct height for every lawn. Mississippi State University Extension recommends roughly 0.5–1.5 inches for bermudagrass, 1–2 inches for zoysia, 1.5–2 inches for centipede, and 2.5–3 inches for St. Augustine. Equipment, terrain, shade, and the lawn's condition may justify staying toward the taller end of a range.

Cutting too low can expose stems, thin the canopy, and make the lawn look scalped. In shaded areas, a slightly higher cut leaves more surface area to capture sunlight.

Sources: MSU Extension mowing heights and turfgrass in shade.

Guide 02

Water early and let the leaves dry.

Long periods of wet leaves can encourage disease. MSU Extension recommends timing irrigation around the hours when dew is already present, generally overnight into early morning, and stopping early enough that watered turf dries alongside the rest of the lawn.

Watch the soil and the grass instead of watering automatically after every hot day. Deep, less frequent irrigation generally supports stronger roots better than repeated shallow wetting. Local restrictions, soil type, slope, rainfall, and grass species still matter.

Source: MSU Extension: Watering and Plant Disease.

Guide 03

Never play catch-up with half the lawn.

A useful mowing rule is to remove no more than about one-third of the grass canopy in a single cut. For example, a bermudagrass lawn maintained near 1–1.5 inches needs more frequent mowing because each visit should remove only a fraction of an inch.

When grass becomes overgrown, bring it down gradually over multiple cuts. Removing too much at once exposes stems, produces heavy clippings, and can leave a healthy lawn looking brown.

Source: MSU Extension: Summertime Lawn Essentials.

Guide 04

Don't feed weeds before the lawn wakes up.

Warm-season grass should be actively growing before fertilizer is applied. MSU Extension advises waiting until a warm-season lawn has been mowed at least twice; feeding earlier can favor weeds and worsen large-patch disease.

A soil test is the best starting point because it shows whether lime, phosphorus, or potassium is actually needed. Product labels and local Extension guidance should control application rates and timing.

Sources: MSU Extension: Large Patch and Fall Lawn Guide.

Guide 05

A sharp blade leaves a healthier finish.

A dull mower blade tears the leaf instead of cutting it cleanly. The ragged result can look pale or brown across the lawn and increases injury to the turf. Sharp blades, a clean deck, and the right deck height are basic ingredients of a professional-looking cut.

Check blades after impacts and whenever the cut starts looking frayed. Always disconnect the machine's power source and follow the manufacturer's service instructions before touching the blade area.